It was Nelson
Mandela's birthday. He turned 94 on July 18 and for one day, everyone was under
the spell of Mandela. Blacks, whites and everyone in between, everyone loves
Madiba or tata (father) as he is called here. We only saw pictures of the man
and only a small crowd of people was allowed on his party, but an entire nation
celebrated his birthday by doing 67 minutes of charity work that day to honor
his ideas.
67, since the man
devoted 67 years of his life to fight for equality for his people and all other
cultures. Exactly on that day, the nation was relieved from a period of bad
weather, and the people Mandela fought for could take a break from all the water
misery that plagued the townships. The sun and warm temperatures were doing community
service for more than 67 minutes as a tribute to Madiba.
How a people that has
been so oppressed and so humiliated, keeps believing in a better world but even
more so how a man after being plagued by so much misery and was excluded by the
government based on his skin color, forgave these people, is almost unreal .
The day before, I visited
the District Six Museum with my family.
District Six is an ugly wound in downtown Cape Town and is a symbol
of the apartheid policy that ruled the country for years. It was a
working-class area, but very lively and multicultural, so the stories tell.
Many nationalities were living together and it was a vibrant
neighborhood with lots of restaurants and bars. The colorful picture of this district
did not fit into a clean and Calvinist lifestyle that the apartheid government had
in mind. Spatial planning in all its extremity was executed and what does not belong,
should better be removed to another area. In the 60's it was decided to
evacuate the area completely and change the area into a new white neighborhood.
In the end, the white neighborhood was never realized. Visiting it today, you
will see a partly built area but most of it is empty land. The inhabitants were
exiled to the ‘Cape Town flats’, on the other side of Table Mountain. To date,
these are the townships that are still embracing Cape Town.
We were lucky Noor, a
former resident and banished from the neighborhood, was witnessing about the
good days in District Six. That day, he accompanied a group of Muslim schoolkids,
neatly in their uniforms, some girls with vails, some guys with fez, but mostly a cheerful bunch of teenagers, now
living in the surroundings of District Six.
Noor was born in
District Six. He was second generation in the area. He started his family in
the District, had a job until one day in 1975, everything came to an end. His
family had one month to empty the house and move out of the area. Every day,
for six years long, Noor revisited his former house and on one day it was gone.
Noor witnesses about the colorful life
in the district and about the many cultures living together in harmony. Perhaps
the memories are more romantic than real life was, but how can a government
decide that a neighborhood that was created by its inhabitants was inferior to
that of its own people? How can a government be so obsessed with protecting its
own species that it compares the lives of the inhabitants with stones and hope
that everything will disappear with a bulldozer? These are questions that are
crossing my mind and my conversations with the Afrikaner people that were part
of the apartheid regime, confuse me even more. Maybe because they are humans as
well and a lof of them victims of a dogmatic policy.
Not only families were
torn apart in District Six, but an entire community was destroyed. The
consequences are dramatic, especially for cultures where community life is so
important and family is the foundation of their existence. To blame apartheid as
the only culprit for the huge misery in these townships, would not be correct.
Twenty years have passed since apartheid, and a lot of the poverty and despair is
also the result of a constantly changing world where globalization, neoliberal
policies and as a lot of people are telling me, a failing policy of the current
government. Poverty is becoming
more poignant and the values that were once so
important to different communities are disappearing and leave people adrift.
Yesterday, my daughters
and me visited an education project in one of the poorest townships of Cape
Town, Lavender Hill. Gangs are
controlling Lavender Hill and there is a lot of violence. We were told that
this was one of the areas where people of District Six were removed to. We
participated in a program that assists parents in raising their children.
Coming from Belgium, the sight of the houses with corrugated iron roofs and old
billboards that are used as a wall but also houses with small gardens to make
it a bit cosy, remains hard to getting used to. It remains incomprehensible
that so many people can live on such a small area. And yet people try
to make the best of it, they bike, women are gossiping, you see men chatting
... But my ignorance of life in a township became clear when I talked to Natasha, one of the parents. She is a single
mother of a boy of seven and lives with her mother not far from the school.
Quality time with the children was the theme of the meeting. We had to tell
each other how we spend quality time with children. I said I had it with my
kids in the kitchen during cooking. She replied that this was not possible for
her because they only had one room which served as bedroom and kitchen and it
was too small. When I replied that they could do this at the table, she replied
that they did not even have a table. At this moment, I realized that I can not
even begin to imagine how life in the townships is. Both of us are a mum, and
we both want the best for our children but the odds are not the same and when I
saw these mothers, teenage mothers, aunt, grandma and dad sitting in the room,
I knew that these opportunities are so important. They themselves never enjoyed
a good education. They are being teached how to talk to their children. How
important it is to read stories to their children in order for the kids to learn
new words. For us, this seems so normal for these people, it is not. The moms, aunt, grandmother proudly tell us how
they spend quality time with the kids and how they teach them new concepts by doing
things together. One of the moms was so proud to tell us ‘my child would love this whale book because he
loves boats and whales’, is moving but also hard. They want so badly to provide
their children a good future, but to realize that these children may never get
the opportunities to enjoy a decent education is a harsh reality. The
environment in which they live is one of gangster violence and drugs and quick
money and this is the future of many innocent, happy children we met that day.
Desmund Tutu put it nicely, the day after Madiba's birthday: "Madiba’s
heart would bleed, luckily he does not know everything."
And yet I do not want to
end on a negative note and despite those harsh realities, there are people out there who
are active in order to help these communities. The teachers at the school that accompany
the children every day, the many volunteers such as Brigid and many others that
try to give the people the tools to create a better life for themselves. There
is a lot of misery in this country but also a lot of good-will of its citizens
to give everyone equal opportunities. Such as the anti-apartheid movement at
the time changed the course of the country, different communities, black and
white, rich and poor, will make it possible,
little by little, to overcome the
poverty and misery and make Madiba's
dream come true. As Desmund Tutu ended
his interview: "there is a lot of wonderful people of all races that love South
Africa with a lot of passion." These are similar findings I encounter in my search
of the evolution of the postapartheid society.
Thank you Isabelle for opening this window to an unknown town with seemingly the most layered and vivid remnants of 'white' africa...In your wonderful blog (with 'Paris s'éveille' echoing on its background :)), I read the uncovering of different angles of a diverse society: in color, ethnicity, means, ideas, imagined anxieties,...but also in political interests, public aid/opinions and individual survival. It makes me also think of how 'development aid' is only walking on tops of icebergs. Many of us are poor in a way...if only from a lack of translation.. I received a book once called "Arm & Kansrijk",(still have to read it though), but I hope we can discuss it some day over a 'pint' or 2,3,.. ;) Can't wait to see/read the result of your research! I'm also curious about some things in your fieldwork: I have the impression that the 'whites' consider you as an 'ally'? Do you experience it that way? What about the colored? Do you feel a distance with them or is it another kind of relation? Sometimes I think that if we presuppose that a group is a 'victim', we might miss a whole way of 'seeing' the world from within that group. I wonder how you handle that in the diverse cauldron of cape town..? Anyway, hope we can carry along this conversation by mail or so..This comment has become way too long..;) Just wanted to thank you for your stories, say hi and wish you luck for the coming adventures! ps: Congrats for Madiba's birthday!! I will probably sacrifice my 67 minutes of charity on the upcoming exams...:p
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